Franci Savenc 25.10.2016 00:38 892 0

Usodni padec

Friko - Peter Mikša: ... Jerzya Kukuczke v južni steni Lotseja

Poljski alpinisti so se v Himalajo podali kot zamudniki, a so zelo hitro uspeli nadoknaditi zamujeno in se že na začetku osemdesetih zavihteti na čelo novih trendov v himalajizmu. Poljaki so namreč našli belo liso v tedanji plezalni dejavnosti na osemtisočakih - zimske pristope. Le ti so še danes mejnik mogočega.

Izmed njih je posebej izstopal Jerzy - Jurek Kukuczka. V samo osmih letih mu je le malo za legendarnim, Reinholdom Messnerjem uspelo osvojiti krono Himalaje - vseh 14 osemtisočakov. Messner je za to potreboval 16 let (od leta 1970 do leta 1986).

Poleg tega je Jurek v tem zamahu kar 9 osemtisočakov preplezal po prvenstvenih smereh (skupno pa ima celo 11 prvenstvenih smeri na osemtisočake), na kar štiri izmed njih je stopil v zimskem času.

1979 — Lotse
1980 — Everest – nova smer
1981 — Makalu – nova smer, alpski slog, solo
1982 — Broad Peak
1983 — Gašerbrum II – nova smer, alpski slog
1983 — Gašerbrum I – nova smer, alpski slog
1985 — Daulagiri – prvi zimski vzpon
1985 — Čo Oju – nova smer, prvi zimski vzpon
1985 — Nanga Parbat – nova smer
1986 — Kangčendženga – prvi zimski vzpon
1986 — K2 – nova smer
1986 — Manaslu – nova smer, alpski slog
1987 — Annapurna I – prvi zimski vzpon
1987 — Šiša Pangma – nova smer, alpski slog

Skoraj natanko deset let po svojem prvem vzponu na osemtisočaka je na isti gori ostal za vedno. Leta 1989 se je vrnil pod Lotse, da prepleza južno steno. Približno 300 metrov pod vrhom je 24. oktobra padel, ob padcu se mu je vrv pretrgala in Kukuczka je zgrmel v prepad.

24.10.2016 11:22

YouTube: Objavljeno je 10. oktobra 2014
Jerzy Kukuczka - Legendary Climber Jerzy Kukuczka (24 March 1948 – 24 October 1989), born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world. He is the first man who made the first winter ascents to the 3 eight-thousanders: Dhaulagiri with Andrzej Czok in 1985, Kangchenjunga with Krzysztof Wielicki in 1986 and Annapurna I with Artur Hajzer in 1987. He is the only climber to have ascended four of the eight-thousanders during winter. Along with Tadeusz Piotrowski came on K2 new path (called the "Polish Line"), which no one has ever repeated.Kukuczka is widely considered among the climbing community to be one of the best high-altitude climbers in history.[1] He ascended all fourteen eight-thousanders in just under eight years, a shorter time than any climber before (Reinhold Messner included, whom it took 16 years) or since. In the process, Kukuczka established ten new routes and climbed four summits in winter (compared to 6 new routes of Messner's, none of them during winter). He was one of an elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers who specialized in winter ascents (called Ice Warriors).