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Zasnežena narava, 29. 1. 2018, Avtor: Boris Štupar

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Franci Savenc 1921 1

V Druju

sta Domen Kastelic (AAO) in Janez Svoljšak (AO Kranj) v petek, 17. aprila, prosto ponovila Direktni severni ozebnik

V Chamonix sta se odpeljala z namenom preplezati severno steno Grandes Jorasses po smeri No Siesta, a ju je vremenski preobrat po enem bivaku pregnal iz stene.
Rezervni načrt je bila stena Aiguille Sans Nom in v njej redko plezana smer There Goes the Neighbourhood, a se je tudi tu, že v prvih raztežajih, pokazalo, da ni pravih razmer za normalno plezanje.

Tako sta odšla na koncu odšla v severni ozebnik Druja in prosto ponovila Direktno: ED, MS, AI6, 700 m.

Vir: Fb Altamania

 

18.04.2015

 
Fotografije: Altamania
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1 komentarjev na članku "V Druju"

Franci Savenc,

Altamania: Dru North Couloir Direct

With Janez Svoljšak we drove to Chamonix with an objective on Grandes Jorasses. After successful climbing the first day we really had 'No Siesta' at the bivy. Not according to the weather forecast it snowed all night and continued during the next day while we were repelling. We took a rest day in the valley and headed up to the mountains again with a plan to climb rarely repeated route on Aiguille Sans Nom. But if 'There Goes the Neighbourhood', it doesn't this time. When we approached closer to the wall we saw that first pitches were not in icy conditions. As we looked up for a while we thought it is possible to do a variation of those pitches on the rock, but would need a bit more gear with us to free it... Just on the right was our last backup plan that we knew for sure is in conditions, and the next day we enjoyed mixed climbing of 'North Couloir Direct' on Les Drus.

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